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Rodent time again!

Common Rat found on post at a customers home in Brisbane, QLD, Australia

Its that time of year again when Rodents are at their most active in and around our homes. Of course Rodents are an issue all year round but during the colder months we tend to be more aware of them as they head into our homes/workplaces looking for a warm place to start a family…

Rodents spread disease and it is really important that they are kept away from our homes and most crucially our food preparation/storage areas. So what can you do? There are a few things to know about Rats and Mice to ensure you adequately protect your home.

  • They are Prolific Breeders
  • They love dark damp places with lots of debris
  • Once they find a home they are reluctant to leave as other Rats will attack them coming into their territory
  • They fit through really small spaces!! Mice fit through 6-7mm and Rats 20mm
  • They are mistrustful of changes in their environment and can take a while to take a bait or approach a trap
  • They do alot of damage inside a home and can ruin wiring, insulation and even plasterboard.
  • Predators and “scents” won’t chase them out.
  • They spread disease.. and we’re not just talking the “Plague”
Rodent Burrows

The most effective form of treatment is prevention! Keeping them out of your home is key! Once they gain entry it can take a long time to get the problem under control. So block up entry points to your home. Expanding insulation foam is best as it ensures the whole area is blocked. Wire Mesh is the next best thing if it is an area that needs ventilation. Steel Wool can also be used to pack out a hole around a pipe. Limit their access to your roof. Trim back overhanging branches and foliage that provide a bridge into your home. Install a special “guard” around the power lines coming into your home so they can’t walk along the line straight into your roof. (These are available from most hardware stores)

Perfect Rat breeding ground!

Limit the areas they can nest in and around your home by removing all debris and clutter. Minimise the things they can use for nesting such as fabric and paper and cardboard as they will tear this up into small pieces and create a warm environment for their babies who need to be kept warm while mum and dad are out foraging for food. Choose the type of roof insulation for your home with this in mind as wool insulation and spray in particles create a great nesting environment. The rolls of insulation have less loose debris that can be used for nesting.

Ensure there isn’t any water source for rats or mice to drink from. This includes fixing dripping taps, repairing plumbing leaks, removing containers of water and ensuring there isn’t alot of water siting in pot plant saucers.

Limit food sources. Make sure that their options for food are minimal! Put all of the food in your pantry in glass jars or very heavy duty plastic as rats will eat through plastic eventually. You do need to be more careful with glass in your home as opposed to plastic which doesn’t shatter when you drop it.. If your home isn’t very hospitable to them when they do their initial recon they may not choose it as the perfect place to live…. maybe bothering that neighbour you don’t like.

There are a list of natural deterrents listed on the internet but once you have a mouse or rat they usually won’t leave because you introduce these deterrents to the environment. These are better thought of as one weapon in your “deterrent” plan. I have had some success with peppermint tea bags discarded around problem areas and peppermint essential oil sprayed around… You could plant some plants that are said to be deterrents such as: Mint, Sweet Pea, Lavender, Daffodils, Grape Hyacinth, Catnip, Camphor Plant, Elderberry. Having a cat or dog that is a good mouse hunter isn’t usually a deterrent in and of itself as they are used to sharing their environment with a predator.. which is why they find small inaccessible areas to set up house.. your ceiling or walls are their favourites.

Deter them from your home by Limiting Food and water, Blocking Entry using Natural Deterrents and having a good hunting Pet.

What can you do once they move in?

Once Rodents have moved in you will need to attack the problem on multiple fronts. Block off access points to food. Ensure there is no pet food left out or other food sources available to them. Set up traps and Baits in areas they travel or close to their nest if yo know where that is. Place the baits and traps inside a box with a clear entry and exit so that they feel safe to enter this space. Make this area really attractive by putting a little bit of an alternative food source loose in this area and put a small shallow container with water in it. It may take a while for them to trust this new thing in their environment. If you are using baits the rodent will go looking for water after it has consumed the bait and providing the water source will hopefully mean the dying rodent will die there where you can easily access the dead body for removal. Otherwise if they crawl in between your walls and die you will have an awful smell to deal with.

Be really careful if using poisons!

If handling baits be aware that rodenticides are extremely dangerous. Don’t be blase! Wear disposable gloves when placing baits and removing dead bodies! Make sure the baits are not accessible to other creatures. It is imperative that small children, our natural wildlife or your pets aren’t poisoned too! Baits should be placed inside lock boxes. The dead rodent is also a danger to other creatures as the poison remains active for several days. It can take several days from ingestion of poison to death making the slower rodent more likely to be captured by predators.

If you are suspicious your pet may have accidentally ingested poison this site is a great resource for information: https://www.msdvetmanual.com/toxicology/rodenticide-poisoning/anticoagulant-rodenticides-warfarin-and-congeners

What does your Pest Control Expert do?

Our technicians will assess the level of problem you are experiencing and give you their best advice on methods of attack. We would usually install bait stations that are not accessible by children or pets in areas frequented or commonly travelled by the pest. These baits will only be consumed if there are no more palatable and previously trusted food sources available.. so just laying out baits isn’t enough.. you also need to remove other food sources. A full rodent program can be instigated if the issue is a large infestation. This will involve monitoring and re baiting regularly.

If you are in the Greater Brisbane Area Call 1300 665 665 if you’d like our advice.

Midges

Managing Biting Midge.

There are over 4,000 species of family Ceratopogonidae, the family of biting midges.  Of the 11 species in South East Queensland there are five species which are major pests.  Each species has a different breeding habitat.

Culicoides subimmaculatus:  breeds in open mangrove areas.   

Culicoides marmoratus:  breeds in algae covered mud in salt marshes or below mangroves.  

Culicoides ornatus:  breeds in tidal creeks associated with the Brisbane River.  Active dawn and dusk only.

Lasiohelia townsvillensis:  traditionally breeds in rainforests, but now occur in urban situations where rainforest conditions are mimicked by well watered gardens with mulch, compost heaps etc. Generally appear after heavy rains, and early winter rain may lead to an outburst in spring.  This species is known to bite all day.

Culicoides molestus:  formerly found in estuarine areas where it was not classified as a major pest species.  Canal developments created an ideal habitat for this species.  The soft flocculated sand is an ideal place for the female to lay eggs, and the proximity of the human and dog populations provide a ready supply of blood meals.  Emergence of females begins 3 days before full or new moon, 50% emerge by the next day and emergence is completed on the day of the full or new moon.  Although the flight range is only 400 to 500 metres it has been found much further from any possible breeding place.  It has become a major pest of residents in canal estates.

Description and Life Cycle

Biting midges are very small, 1-3mm long.  Typically they are greyish, but more reddish when filled with blood.  The mouthparts consist of four minute cutting blades (that lacerate the skin inflicting sharp burning pain), enclosed in a fleshy sheath.  The eggs are roughly banana-shaped, with rounded ends and a surface variously adorned with minute projections.  They are rarely encountered in nature and are laid in batches of up to fifty in or near the larval habitat.

A tiny worm-like larva hatches and is the main feeding stage of the life cycle.  It grows from first to fourth instar, moulting each time, over a period of days, weeks or months according to species and environmental factors.  The pupal stage looks rather like a tiny legless blunt nosed lobster which breathes air through a pair of small respiratory trumpets at the head end.  It does not feed during this stage.  The adults emerge from the pupa after some days or weeks. If this is cyclical (eg related to tides) it will take place over several days with the males about a day ahead of the females. 

https://extension.entm.purdue.edu/publichealth/images/midge/popups/midges02.jpg

Like mosquitoes, the female biting midge takes a blood meal to provide protein to develop her eggs. They are known as pool feeders because they use their proboscis like a saw to create a tiny hole into the skin into which a pool of blood can flow.  Saliva is injected into the pool to help the flow of blood. The direct impact on human health caused by biting midge is due to allergens in midge saliva reacting on people of varying degrees of sensitivity and immunity. Most people find the bites uncomfortable and distressing with the irritation leading to scratching and sometimes infected sores.

Biting Midge Facts

  • Biting midges are found on all continents except Antarctica.
  • Biting midges are extremely annoying but are not known to transmit disease in Australia.
  • Midge harbour (rest) in but do not breed in grass, trees or in soil or sand in the garden.
  • In overcast humid weather, they are known to bite all day and night.
  • Biting midges can detect CO2 from as far as 100 metres.  They also detect body heat and lactic acid generated during strenuous exercise.

Biting Midge Management (compiled from various South-East Queensland Local Government Brochures) What can and cannot be done to address the biting midge problem?

  • Biting midges are amongst one of the most complicated pest species to control and cannot be eradicated.
  • The larvae of midge exist in mud and sandy substrates which makes treatment near impossible whereas mosquitoes breed in water pools making their treatment simpler. 
  • There is currently no registered larvicide for biting midges, as the larvae occur in environmentally sensitive areas of the inter-tidal zone and dispersal patterns are poorly known.
  • The required larvicide dosage would also be environmentally damaging, affecting non targets. 
  • Councils treat mosquito breeding areas on public (and some private) land but do treat midge breeding areas because of the lack of environmentally safe treatments and limited effectiveness.
  • Insecticide application against adult midges is the only option available, however this method provides relatively short term relief and repeated applications are necessary. 
  • Adulticide fogging has limitations on its effectiveness as the mist/fog will only affect what it comes into contact with.
  • Research nearly a decade ago investigated the effectiveness of treating mosquito and midge harbourages in Hervey Bay and Redcliffe.  Biting midge are prone to desiccation in the heat of the day and rest in cool, shady areas such as the underside of leaves of shrubs and under stairs etc.  

Management at your property

  • If biting midges are a problem entering the house, smaller mesh size fly screens should stop entry. Screens can also be sprayed with insecticide to deter midge entering.
  • It is most likely that midge will enter dwellings on the sheltered side of the dwelling. Close windows on that side when midges are a problem.
  • Midges do not like to seek blood meals when a moderate breeze is blowing, so ceiling fans or other fans that increase air flow inside the dwelling may also decrease biting midge nuisance indoors.
  • Mosquito coils or plug in insecticide tablet burners may be useful during periods of severe midge nuisance.
  • Activities such as water hosing and digging soil attract biting midge. Avoid outdoor activities like car washing and gardening during the early morning and late afternoon when midges are most active.
  • Wear light long sleeved clothing when outdoors during midge activity periods, usually early morning and late afternoon, to minimize exposure to these insects.
  • Personal insect repellents applied to the skin and clothing as directed usually give several hours protection. Sensitive individuals or young children not wishing to use commercial repellents can try liberal applications of baby oil to exposed skin to reduce bites. An effective home repellent can be made up with equal parts of baby oil, Dettol and an aromatic oil such as citronella or lavender. Local research has shown that oil extracted from the lemon scented gum Eucalyptus citriodora is also a good midge repellent.
  • Biting midges have a histamine like substance in their saliva which can cause intense itching in sensitive individuals. To prevent acute allergic reaction and allow the body to develop its own immunity to midge bites vitamin B1 (thiamine) can be tried. This vitamin has an anti-histamine type action. Biting midge expert, Dr. Eric Reye, suggests an adult dose of 200mg twice a day with meals, preferably starting 2 weeks before exposure to midge. As immunity is developed this dose can be reduced. The development of personal immunity generally comes with a regular exposure to low numbers of midge bites, not occasional heavy exposure. Persons who have a more acute reaction to midge bites may require anti-histamine drugs at times. You should consult your family doctor before trialing these drug therapies.
  • Insect trapping devices using ultra violet light as the attractant are generally useless for decreasing biting midge numbers in suburban yards. Traps using carbon dioxide as an attractant must be well designed and operated as well as strategically placed to have any possible beneficial effect.
  • As biting midges are biologically linked with the lunar cycle, take note of the lunar period when midges are most active in your area. If for example you live in an area affected by Culicoides molestus, this species bites most actively in the few days following the full and new moon, so planning an evening barbecue around this time during the warmer months would not be wise.

Either:  Keep vegetation surrounding the house to a minimum. This reduces insect harbourage areas and increases air flow around the house. Also keep lawns well mown as any activity that reduces sheltering sites and lowers humidity surrounding the house will help to deter midges. Landscaping with tallish vegetation with an upper tree canopy is preferable to low, dense vegetation in midge prone areas as it allows a much better airflow near ground level.

Or:  Synthetic pyrethroid harbourage sprays, applied around vegetation and exterior walls may substantially reduce midge adult numbers around treated premises for many weeks.

Research around Hervey Bay and Redcliffe nearly a decade ago investigated treating mosquito and biting midge harbourages.  This treatment may reduce midge numbers for up to six weeks though not totally eliminate the pest. The pesticide is applied to shrubs, foliage, fences, house walls and screens – anywhere where midge may harbour.  Licensed pest managers treat harbourages using a product based on bifenthrin, a synthetic pyrethroid.  This chemical is indiscriminate and will kill most other insects over the six-week period that it is active. It should not be applied to plants that are in flower and attracting other insects.  Care must also be taken to ensure the spray does not drift into waterways.

The best results are obtained when neighbouring properties are also treated and a programmed treatment cycle for the ‘midge season’ is followed.

CALL STEVIE REDBACK 1300 665 665 FOR MORE INFORMATION

Pest Control Requirements for Commercial Kitchens

Commercial Kitchen

If you are setting up a Commercial Kitchen whether it be a Cafe, Restaurant, Nursing Home, Community Centre or Day Care Centre; our experienced technicians can assist you with the requirements of the Queensland Food Safety Laws/requirements.

Complying with the Federal Government Food Safety Laws, QLD government food safety laws and local council legislation is vital to ensure you don’t acquire a fine, are prosecuted or even have your business closed by the authorities due to non compliance.

If you need guidance we have a dedicated Project Manager to assist you in these matters.

Before you open your business we are happy to come in and quote on the requirements of your individual business and provide a Pest Control Program tailored to suit your business.

The service includes a Service Register which is kept on site and can be accessed by staff and management for ease of reporting and if you happen to be audited it can quickly be handed over to the auditor.

Each Service Register is personalised for your business and contains information on the areas of treatment. There are safety data sheets of the products used. Our Insurance and Indemnity information (as required by legislation) are included and we also provide a map of all Locked Bait Stations.

If needed, on request, we can also provide maintenance and hygiene reports on the current state of your kitchen.

If you’d like to arrange a free quote on your commercial pest control needs please call 1300 665 665 and we will be happy to send one of our experienced licenced technicians to assist you.

Termite Treatment

The only kind of house that should be eaten.

The treatments available for treating termites are varied and come in a variety of delivery methods from foams to dust but all must be applied by a licensed professional.

This is not the sort of thing you can look after yourself. A licensed experienced pest controller will apply the correct treatment for the species of termite you are infested with and the size of the colony and infestation you are experiencing.

If you do discover termite activity in your home the best course of action is to cover them back over and ring a professional. By subjecting them to the light you will force them to spread out looking for darkness again. This can split the colony and mean that when the treatment is applied it only kills off one section of the colony with the other half of the colony hiding safely in another location. By spraying them with any pesticide you may have on hand you are also risking a longer term problem. Although the spray may be effective in killing the termites you see it won’t knock out the whole nest.

It is our aim when called to a live termite infestation to ensure that the whole colony is killed. We don’t want anyone left behind to continue feasting on your home.

If you think you may have a problem… give us a call and we will assess the situation free of charge. You would then be advised of the cost to treat the infestation and one of our friendly staff would attend your site to treat the problem.

Call 1300 665 665 if you live in the greater Brisbane region and need a quote.